Europe – Page 4 – Travel Breezers

Positano – May 19 to 23

With a great visit to Bordeaux behind us we flew to Naples where we were so psyched to meet Nikki and her awesome BFF Nicole at an AirBnb – our jumping off point for a trip to Southern Italy.

Quick note about discount flyers like Easy Jet. Make sure to check the luggage allowances! Some Easy Jet tix allow one piece of checked luggage (some don’t), but our allowance was only for 15kg per person, not the usual 23kg, ouch! So, upgrade online to avoid the high charges at the airport.

Naples is an intense city with tons of action everywhere. We met Nikki and Nicole at Palazzo Carafe Della Spina. That’s a very fancy name for a vacation rental apartment directly in the middle of the old city – also known as the Centro Storico. [http://www.booking.com/Share-eQq1xA]. Perfectly adequate and clean place if you are looking for two bedrooms (one is a loft) and two bathrooms for under $100. And the manager, Maria, is very nice and awesome. After our ride to Positano fell through, she quickly arranged another one. And was great with suggestions for restaurants. The Centro Storico is actually really cool, but one night in Naples was plenty for us.

Positano is a pretty magical place. Very hard for mortals to describe in writing, so I’ll give you a bit of a guy named Steinbeck.

“Positano bites deep. It’s a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone. Its houses climb a hill so steep it would be a cliff except that stairs are cut into it. I believe that most house foundations are vertical, in Positano they are horizontal. The small curving bay of unbelievably blue and green water laps gently on a beach of small pebbles. There is only one narrow street and it does not come down to the water. Everything else is stairs, some as steep as ladders. You do not walk to visit a friend, you either climb or slide.” – J. Steinbeck. For more Steinbeck on Positano go to: https://sirenuse.it/media/57085/Steinbeck.pdf

This enchanted village is built directly into a steep hillside above the Tyrrehenian Sea – that’s what the Mediterranean is sometimes called on the west coast of Italy. It’s very possible to get a place that requires walking down literally hundreds of steps to the sea. And, of course, hundreds back up. The steps were supposedly built uneven to ward off enemies back in the day. Not sure I believe that. But, if you want the best location in Positano, check out Villa Costanzo. It’s a two bedroom, one and one-half bath VRBO [http://www.villacostanzo.com] just 12 steps from the beach. Kitchen and dining room as well. And best of all – an amazing view. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay in this place.

Villa Costanzo – Right at the top of the steps to the beach

Positano is loaded with quaint walking paths and little streets lined with boutiques – great linen and jewelry. Shawn, Nikki and Nicole did quite a bit of damage here. I might have done a bit of shopping myself. 😉 There are also a ton of excellent restaurants.

A little beach time – then a bit of damage

Two of our favorite restaurants were Chez Black [http://www.chezblack.it] – a Positano institution that is right on the beach – and Ristorane Max [http://www.ristorantemax.it]. Chez Black has great pizzas, pasta and seafood and is a terrific place to see and be seen – awesome people watching! Max is a combo art gallery/restaurant and is much more of a fine dining experience. The food at Max, however, is excellent. Probably the highest quality dining we had in Positano.

Another great place is La Tagliata [https://www.latagliata.com]. It’s built into the very top of the cliffs above town. Way, way up there! If you call them, they will send a bus to pick you up. The ride up is pretty scary. Views from the bus windows make you feel like you’re flying as you traverse the impossibly narrow streets clinging to the mountainside.

Tagliata is not “fine dining”, but authentic and high quality – owned and operated by an Italian family – and really, really good. They are very friendly and ask you only two questions. Where are you from? And, do you want red or white wine? Then the food just starts coming – and coming. Best to arrive here on an empty stomach or you won’t get through the first 30 minutes of this two and a half hour feast. It’s a fixed menu – with lots of vegetarian mixed in. The friendly waiters just keep bringing more dishes. Anti-pasta, pasta, cheese, veggies, breads, meats – all kinds – and loads of desserts. All you can eat and drink for 40 euro per person. And an amazing view! Very fun!

The road along the Amalfi Coast – AKA the Amalfi Drive – is a marvel of engineering and is arguably the most spectacular road in Europe. It’s built directly into the cliffs, hundreds of feet above the sea. Tour busses, cars and motorcycles all fight for position on the ultra-tight curves. Years ago, Shawn and I made the mistake of renting motor scooters with our pre-teen girls for a “fun” trip down the coast. Pro tip – this is a bad idea and an example of poor parenting 🤔.

But if you really want to see the coast – and you do really want to see the coast – you have to rent a boat. I can’t emphasize this strong enough. You must rent a boat! One of my top 10 favorite things to do in the world is to rent a boat in Positano on a sunny day.

On the beach you’ll find several kiosks where you can rent boats and buy tickets for the ferries to Capri and other coastal towns. We rented at a kiosk is called Lucibello. It’s not inexpensive – was 600 euro for 8 hours – but oh so worth it. We were blessed with a glorious sunny day and a cool breeze. Our captain Roberto took us for the slow ride down the coast from Positano to Amalfi. The water is bluest you’ll see anywhere and the scenery is other-worldly.

Went for a swim in that cave – really a huge cavern

We pulled in for a terrific lunch at La Tonarella [http://www.ristorantelatonnarella.com/en/storia/]. Apparently Jackie “O” used to come here for a special pasta with courgettes (that’s zucchini). It was delicious. Also great just to watch big groups of Italians have a lunch. It always sounds like they are arguing – until they bust out laughing.

La Tonorella is the pink building on the shore

Enjoying the speciality drink of Positano – Limoncello

Positano is a place that you must see. But, in my opinion, it is much more “touristy” than when we visited about 10 years ago. Our sense was that many more busses of visitors are being jammed into town than before. It doesn’t ruin the experience – especially if you get a boat – but it’s something to be aware of just so you can set your expectations accordingly.

Next stop – Puglia.

Biarritz to Bordeaux – May 7 to 18

I know that I’ve become a bit tardy in recent reporting. Apologies to my four readers. “The warm summer breezes, french wines and cheeses, kept his ambition at bay – Jimmy Buffet.” It’s very easy to do nothing in France.

A plane from Florence to Madrid and a connection to San Sebastián gets us to a little town just outside the airport called Hondarribia. Firmly inside the Basque Country. I think they just seceded from Spain. No worry. If it’s not on Fox it’s all fake news anyway. Or is that CNN? 😂

For one night we lodge at the three-star Hotel Obisbo, a 15th century structure converted into a funky hotel (not in a smelly way, it’s actually super clean) that’s a five minute taxi from the airport. And less than $100 for the night. Small room, but tidy and comfortable. Expecting an “airport city”, the little town of Hondarribia, with cobbled streets and a cool, old church is a pleasant surprise.

We happened upon a great little restaurant called Danontzat with the best – and I mean the very best – Foie Gras that I’ve ever had [http://gastrotur.net/gastroteka-danontzat-hondarribia/]. Per the owner, the goose is not force fed, but lives under a fig tree and eats the figs that fall off the tree before its liver is sacrificed. Hmmm. But so, so good!

The next day we take a short taxi ride – about 30 minutes – to the incredibly swanky town of Biarritz. It’s like Beverly Hills and La Jolla had a love child and dropped it on the coast of France. Got an Airbnb here that was awesome – if you’re not too tall. [https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/21127022?eal_exp=1528163641&eal_sig=e462d639ef00767c9b17605f5399969f58f3b6f7df636ef5e7e210bca39f44c9&eal_uid=116697965&eluid=0&euid=51a1f103-cfe9-45b1-9d03-6d18093aff7c]. Not a problem for the vertically challenged Klein’s. One small room (kitchen and living area) downstairs with a queen size bed in the loft. The shower is upstairs and the toilet is down. It’s challenging to navigate the spiral staircase downstairs in the middle of the night and the ceiling upstairs is a bit low, but the incredible location wins out.

We’re just above the Grande Plage, one of the top surf spots in France – and, I think, one of the best “city” beaches anywhere.

During our three day early May (and a bit rainy) visit, the waves were about 5-8 feet with about 50-75 surfers in the water most of the time. Really cool to watch out the window.

This town is super glitzy. The winding cobblestone streets are full of great bistros and shopping. The Grand Plage promenade is loaded up with tables for lunch, snacks and drinks on the shore – a perfect spot to take in the coastal views, and enjoy the surf action.

Unfortunately for us, it was mostly cloudy and rainy, but when the sun did poke through you could imagine an awesome summery day in Biarritz.

Other cool attractions include a better than expected aquarium – with this very rare French blue lobster.

An impressive cathedral on the cliffs above the surf.

And a great stone walkway to take in the superior ocean views.

We’d totally recommend Biarritz for a two or three day visit. Probably better in the summer, but the crowds are likely massive as well.

Think Lizbeth Salander might be hiding here in BTZ

It’s a two hour train ride from Biarritz to Bordeaux where we meet Kevin and Linda Rosen (once known as Linda Glick and, of course, 1984 UCLA Lambda Chi Alpha Crescent Queen) our traveling companions for a week in one of France’s finest wine regions. Linda, an amazing planner, arranged an Airbnb in the best part of Bordeaux’s old town for our first two nights.

Located on the Garonne River, Bordeaux was one of the most important trading ports in the 18th century. For some reason, I had in my mind that it was a little village, but it’s most definitely not. It’s actually the sixth largest city in France – with about 250,000 people and the hub of one of the world’s preeminent wine growing regions. It’s full of activity and great architecture – old and modern.

For wine aficionados, you’ll already know that “left bank” refers to wine regions on the west side of the Garonne River and “right bank” to those on the east side of the river. I know you knew that – it was just a refresher.

Linda arranged dinners at two fantastic restaurants – Solena [http://www.solena-restaurant.com] and Le Boucheon Bordelais [https://www.bouchon-bordelais.com]. Both are excellent. Solena is a bit more “fine dining” – it is a Michelin rated restaurant – and Le Boucheon is a bit more of a bistro, but both are great.

Our excellent planner also put together a very nice wine tour with Elodie [www.bordeauxwithelodie.com]. Elodie picked us up at our apartment – which was convenient cuz it was raining – and took us to the left bank to tour and taste the finest of Chateau Lafond-Rochet (AOC: Saint Estephe), Chateau Beychevelle (AOC: Saint-Julien), and Chateau Kirwan (AOC: Margaux).

These are all Grand Cru Classe labels from the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855. In the Medoc region – which encompasses the left bank – the Grand Cru Classe ratings were established in 1855 and have not been re-rated since. No matter, these left bank winemakers continue to represent quality and their Chateaus are extremely impressive – along with the wines. A great day of tasting (that’s “degustation” for the oenophiles) and touring, as well some fine wine education.

Next we’re off to our Backroads cycling trip along the Dordogne River and the “right bank” of Bordeaux. Yes, life is getting rough! Team Rosen/Klein meet our trip leaders at the train station and shuttle with a group of seven others “cyclists” to the village of Pontours to pick up our bikes and take a warm-up ride through the bastide town of Molieres and some lovely tree-lined paths along the Dordogne River.

Molieres – Ms. Rosen (former pro art director) knows how to set up a pic!

After about 20 miles, we reach our destination – and home for the first two nights, Le Vieux Logis [http://www.vieux-logis.com/en/], a Relais & Chateaux listed property in Tremolat. It’s a beautiful, elegantly restored estate, formerly dedicated to tobacco production. That night we are blessed with a fantastic dinner at the property’s own Michelin one-star gourmet restaurant. Was so great. Especially since it was paid for many month’s ago.

The next day, however, brings a challenge. Rain. We had packed our cycling clothes in January – and shipped them to Nikki in Italy so we could pick them up just before this trip – dreaming only of sunny days. So our rain gear was a bit make-shift. Crescent Queen Rosen, on the other hand was fully equipped for the battle with a long water proof coat, gortex pants and even shoe covers. So good to be a “planner”. 😊 No matter, 10 out of our group of 11 (one was smart enough to pass this IQ test and not ride) saddled up and rode in the rain to the Rouffignac Cave [http://www.bradshawfoundation.com/france/rouffignac/index.php] to view prehistoric cave paintings of woolly mammoths, rhinos, bison and horses. I usually find this kind of stuff pretty boring, but these petroglyphs are actually pretty cool. But go on a warm day. Transitioning from a cold wet ride to a colder wet, damp cave is not ideal. Nonetheless, the hot bath back at Le Vieux Logis was awesome!

Day 3 brought slightly better weather and an overcast ride through the wonderful countryside of Bergerac (remember “Cyrano de Bergerac”). After a stop at 16th century Chateau de Monbazillac – which is cool if you like old chateaus – we ride our way to Chateau de Vigiers, a fabulous resort with an awesome looking 27 hole golf course [https://vigiers.com/relais-hotel-dordogne.html]. This resort is also endowed with a Michelin one-star restaurant – and we finished off the day with another gastronomic delight!

Backroads (and Butterfield & Robinson) always save the best for last. As the weather continued to improve, we make our make our way to the gem of the right bank, Saint Emilion – a UNESCO World Heritage site. The riding remains sublime as we wind through some of the world’s finest vineyards toward Hostellerie de Plaisance [https://hostelleriedeplaisance.com] an amazing hotel in the best location in town directly adjacent to the tower of Saint Emilion’s monolithic church.

Hotellerie de Plaisance is five star in every sense. Beautiful rooms with terraces overlooking the old city, amazing service and, of course, their own vineyard.

That evening our guides had arranged for a “wine school” with Benjamin, an expert oenologist from Vignobles and Chateaux, one of the top wine negotiants in Bordeaux. After an hour of excellent (and actually interesting) instruction, we were fully prepared to taste/drink some fine Bordeaux reds at a great St. Emilion pizza spot with the Rosen’s.

The following morning we finally see a mostly sunny day and suit up for another wonderful ride through the villages and vineyards surrounding St. Emilion. Wine expert Benjamin joins us for lunch and a tour at Chateau Pavie, a Premier Grand Cru Classe vineyard. In St. Emilion, this seems to matter a bit more than on the left bank (Medoc), as the ratings are re-evaluated every 10 years (not just held over from 1855).

After the ride we take a private tour of the catacombs and Europe’s largest monolithic church – Eglise Monolithe [http://www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com/uk/1-discover/31-the-12-inescapable-monuments/5-the-monolithic-church-and-its-bell-tower.html] – which happens to be directly under our hotel. If you find yourself in St. Emilion, this place is a must see. It’s a huge church, carved underground in the limestone plateau. Really feels like something out of a Tomb Raider movie. Sorry there are no pics – they are not allowed inside this church.

Our journey to French wine country concludes with a truly gut-busting (and delicious) six-course dinner at our Hotel’s two star Michelin restaurant, La Table de Plaisance. Fantastic cap on a great week!

Linda and Shawn with Josh – one of our Backroads Guides

Although we are sad to put Bordeaux in the rear-view mirror (and to say au revoir to the Rosen’s) we are happy to be flying south to meet up with Nikki and her BFF Nicole for a few days in Positano and a week in Puglia.

Florence, Italy – April 30 to May 7

Air Europa from Lima to Madrid. Biz class – from an accumulation of AmEx Platinum miles – which was very nice. Then a connection from Madrid to Rome. Italo train from Rome to Florence. After 24 hours of travel it was a fantastic surprise when Nikki – studying abroad at NYU’s Florence campus – met us at the station.

Also great cuz we needed someone to help us find our Airbnb. If you are thinking about going to Florence and need more than just a hotel room we very highly recommend this place. [https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/661521?check_in=2018-08-06&guests=1&adults=1&check_out=2018-08-11]

Two bedrooms – one with a queen size bed – and one with a twin. Possibly two twins if you ask. One and a half bathrooms. Living/dining room and a serviceable kitchen (no oven, but a microwave). But the best part is the location. Just around the corner from the Palazzo Vecchio. Right in the middle of Florence. Walk out the door to the best shopping, bars and restaurants. Three minute walk to the Uffizi Museum. A great base to do Firenze.

Firenze is such a fun place. Architecture, art, food, and shopping (especially for leather products) are all five star. And the views are just so memorable. Even the Arno River – which really isn’t much of a river – comes alive when the sun hits it just right.

We’d been in Florence a few times before so we opted to try a few different experiences. First up was a tour of a Parmagiano cheese factory. [https://www.airbnb.com/experiences/91363?location=Florence%2C%20Italy&source=p2&currentTab=experience_tab&searchId=dd83d5a2-9b87-40fa-b102-cb98ebdf358f&federatedSearchId=ce43c316-09b1-4fc5-95f6-25cfc884c8e1&sectionId=e0c2624e-2203-4195-be34-d03ed933978c]

Authentic Parmagiano cheese comes solely from Parma Reggiano – about an hour train ride from Florence. The manufacturing process has been highly regulated and maintains its traditional roots. We met Claudio – who’s family has been making cheese for generations – and, after putting on sterile lab coats, he took us on a tour of his factory. Really cool to see the making of the cheese wheels and the “caveau” – where thousands of cheese wheels are maturing. Smells so good!

Claudio and Shawn in the “caveau” with the maturing cheese

Next up was a leather making workshop. [https://www.airbnb.com/experiences/158168] This is what happens when you only have daughters. But it was really fun. Florence is one of the leather capitals of the world. There are hundreds of leather stores with beautiful hand-crafted items. We went to a small leather shop where the super nice proprietor let us pick out our leather and then taught us how to cut it with her patterns and ultimately – over about three hours – craft some very cool items. Shawn and Nikki made purses and I made a sweet leather pouch. Totally recommend this as well.

Also went for an Italian cooking class. [https://www.tripadvisor.com/AttractionProductReview-g187895-d11450563-Cooking_Class_and_Lunch_at_a_Tuscan_Farmhouse_with_Local_Market_Tour_from_Florence.html] Another great experience. First a tour of Market Centrale – which is a must see and where we purchase our ingredients – then a very short bus ride to an beautiful farmhouse in the hills above Florence. Chefs Issak and Carmella are funny and extra-energetic while teaching the group of about 20 to make bruschetta (pronounced properly in Italian, bru-ske-ta), roast pork, ragu, pesto, fresh pasta from scratch and amazing tiramisu. All with generous amounts of Chianti Classico. Great day and one of the best meals ever. And no worries about having 20 in the group. The kitchen and dining rooms (with an incredible view) are super nice and appropriately sized. After one glass of wine, everyone blends just fine. Another excursion that is highly recommended.

And, of course, beyond the “excursion/experiences”, we had time for just walking around. There are so many marvelous things to marvel at.

Eating is also pretty prodigious. There are far too many good restaurants to name. But some of our favorites, suggested by Nikki, were Osteria Santa Spirito for great pasta (know for it’s gnocchi with tuffle cheese sauce) [https://www.google.com/search?q=osteria+santa+spirito&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari#lkt=LocalPoiAbout&trex=m_t:lcl_akp,rc_f:nav,rc_ludocids:8779609045513250019,rc_q:Osteria%2520Santo%2520Spirito,ru_q:Osteria%2520Santo%2520Spirito] and Gustapizza for great pizza. Both are casual, well priced and in the Santo Spirito area.

Other favorites included Ristorante Hostaria il Desco [http://www.hostariaildesco.com/] and Natalino [http://www.ristorantenatalino.com] for dinner and if you’re craving a rooftop for cocktails, the Hotel Continentale Terraza Bar [https://www.lungarnocollection.com/la-terrazza-lounge-bar] at the base of the Ponte Vecchio is great!

Bistecca Florentina at Hostaria il Desco

There are so many other restaurants that you’ll find just by walking around.

And, of course, there is shopping. Every famous (and not so famous) designer has a store in Florence. If you are looking for something unique – like perhaps a pair of red suede drivers – it will be here.

We’re on our way to Biarritz, France for a few days then to Bordeaux to meet up with Kevin and Linda Rosen for a cycling trip through the vineyards.

So happy to be in Europe. And to see Nikki. We feel so fortunate to be on this journey.

Turks & Caicos – February 1 to February 8

I didn’t know where Grand Turk was. Who would? It lies just south of the Bahamas in the Caribbean sea. If you want to go somewhere off the grid and relax on soft white sand, this is the place for you. If you are looking for night life and end up here, you have likely selected incorrectly.

Grand Turk is mainly known as the site that Columbus may have first landed as he searched for the “new world” and as the place Colonel John Glenn splashed down in 1962 after being the first man to orbit the earth in a space craft. It is amazing that someone would agree to hurtle through space and land in the ocean in this tiny sheet metal capsule.

Damage from last year’s hurricanes is still pretty evident, but the island is resilient. The natural beauty, however, trumps all. Dawna, the owner of our AirBnB met us at the airport with her golf cart and two of her dogs, Ducky and Indie. She was a bit shocked that we had so much luggage, but we managed to all pile in (with the dogs) for the short ride in a golf cart to her place.
After a 10 minute drive – on the wrong/left side of the road, cuz its the British West Indies – we arrived at Dawna’s place which is beautiful. It’s very modern, has a great kitchen, nice living room and an air-conditioned bedroom with a comfortable king size bed. There is a fully screened in porch which allows us to keep the ocean-facing doors wide open. Past the screened porch, there is another deck with lounge chairs. Beyond that deck there is a pristine white sand beach. The water is a iridescent light blue and is super clear for about 200 yards out. At that point it turns dark blue. The light blue is a shelf and the dark blue is an underwater wall which drops off about 7,000 feet creating the third largest coral reef in the world.

The deck is west facing and each night the sunsets have been incredible!

The diving here is pretty spectacular. Dawna hooked us up with Blue Water Divers. Henry, Kristen, Lani, Josh and Kendry took us on four awesome dives over two days. We saw big manta rays, sea turtles, huge crabs, and tons of fish. The whales migrate near here and they told us to listen for the whale sounds while underwater. I didn’t hear them but Shawn did. Super cool!

Our dive masters – who were in their late 20’s and 30’s and from Australia, England and Canada – invited us to their “deck” (seen below) for beers at sunset. The “deck” was right on the beach and had a awesome view of the sunset. Was really fun hanging out with them.

We also met some other “travel friends” while diving and the group of us met at a place called the Bohio Resort to watch the Super Bowl. That was pretty fun too.

There are lots of dogs here called “pot cakes”. They are super friendly. The story is that they used to eat the food that was stuck to the bottom of the cooking pots after the families had eaten. Also, we’re told that only the most friendly would survive, so the one’s that are left are pretty lovable.

Our Brompton bikes have been a huge hit here. We’ve ridden them every day. The island is only 7 miles long so we bike everywhere. Everyone wants to know, “Where you get your fine bike, where can I get one and it’s expensive man….?”. They think we are sorcerers when we fold them up. So far they’ve been incredibly fun and worth the carry.

The few restaurants here are not particularly great. Our best meals, by far, have been cooked at the AirBnB. Shawn went to the place where the fisherman bring in their catch at the end of the day – which is about 200 yards up the road – and bought a big fish for $25. There was a very loud and animated 20 minute “discussion” amongst the fishermen when she asked for it to be filleted. But they finally did it and we made great fish tacos.

Our week in Grand Turk went by really fast. Dawna was a great host. She made sure our place was clean, hooked us up with great diving, took us to the super market (which was still having trouble from the hurricanes keeping fully stocked), made us great homemade spaghetti sauce and cheesecake, and just in general made us feel super welcome! We’d recommend this place to anyone visiting Grand Turk.

Next stop for us was Providenciales. Provo is where the action is in Turks & Caicos. We stayed one night at the Villas Del Mar in Grace Bay – which is absolutely gorgeous. Beautiful white sand, Carribean blue ocean and fabulous resorts. Our one day here was great – except for when Shawn beat me at Scrabble 262 to 261.

Now we are off to San Juan via Santa Domingo, and Tortola to catch Sea Dream I for a cruise through the Caribbean!