Before we get to Vietnam, we have to leave the Maldives.
Leaving the Maldives is soooo hard. It’s so beautiful here and the Sun Siyam Iru Fushi resort is absolutely magnificent. But our journey continues onward to Hanoi and a Backroads cycling trip in Vietnam and Cambodia.
We gear up for a super harsh night of travel. It starts wonderfully with a 4pm seaplane to Male, the capital city of the Maldives – and continues pleasantly with a walking tour of the city because our second flight of the night, to Bangkok, doesn’t depart until 11:30pm. It’s an interesting night as the Maldives is inaugurating a new president, so there is a pretty heavy security presence and a number of closed streets in the downtown area.
We’re no longer on an untouched Maldivian atoll. Male after dark is hot and sweaty and feels like a pretty big and kinda dirty city. The Maldives are a strictly Muslim country, so the call to prayer sings through the city pretty regularly – which is cool – and there is no alcohol (not as cool 😕).
Our guide takes us to the fish market which is full of the day’s catch and smells just exactly like you would think – pretty stinky. Inside, there are vendors with huge shelves of dried fish that our guide says the Maldvian’s don’t eat – it mostly goes to Sri Lanka. I had a taste and concluded that I would not eat that either.
The guide takes us to a souvenir store where we purchase an awesome piece of white coral and a folding rosewood table stand which is remarkably carved out of a single piece of wood. Both coral and stand are beautiful. And Shawn finds a scarf that she likes that the proprietor throws in to the deal for $10. Shawn said it was totally out of place in a pile of really bad scarves and unlike anything else they had. For the lot, we pay $200. The proprietor gives a receipt with a stamp certifying that its from the Maldives, just in case customs officials in another country have questions. All seems in order, so we drag our sweaty selves to dinner and then the airport.
At check-in we discover that our luggage is super overweight and the giant piece of coral is not helping. Our stowed luggage is about 12 kilos heavy and then they ask to weigh our carry-on bags too. Even after Shawn hides our over-stuffed Rolling Stones duffel bags behind a row of chairs, our non-hidden carry-on is already about 5 kilos too much. At $20 per kilo, this is going to be expensive. But after some negotiation, they charge us just $60, and we sneak off, reclaiming our hidden duffels, which BTW weigh at least another 10 kilos.
Five hours later (around 5:30am) we land in Bangkok where we have 2 hours to clear customs, get our luggage, check in at Thai Lion Airways to Hanoi, get through security and to the gate. Customs is relatively smooth and we pick up our luggage. Then we get to the Thai Lion check-in counter and with one hour till take-off, there are at least 50 people in line. After waiting about 10 minutes, we end up cutting the entire line, getting our bags checked just in front of a twenty piece orchestra and make our way to security – which asks me to open up my carry-on. I’m pretty curious as to why, since there is really nothing special in there, but they want to know what’s in the wrapped up newspaper.
I say, “that’s coral”. “Open it up” says the Thai TSA. I say “OK, but be careful, that’s delicate”. “Where did this come from?”. I say, “Maldives, here’s the official receipt”. This went on for a while. Until they said, “you can’t take this on the plane”. Apparently, even if the coral is from another country, once it enters Thailand, it can’t leave due to a policy that prohibits removal of natural things – like coral – from their oceans. We were angry, but with only about 20 minutes to catch our flight to Hanoi, we bid farewell to the coral. I’m quite sure it makes a wonderful decoration on a Thai TSA officer’s desk. At least they didn’t take the rosewood stand.
There was good news, however. Upon further review of the scarf that was thrown in to the coral deal for $10, Shawn determined that it was actually a genuine Gucci – that someone probably lost in the store. So, even after the confiscation of our coral, we declare victory.
Two and a half more hours and we arrive in Hanoi. With the time change, its about 9:30am. All goes smooth with our Vietnam “visa on arrival” and after purchasing myself a celebratory bottle of Johnnie Walker Blue, our driver meets us at the curb and we are off to the awesome and historic Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel.
On the drive into town, we notice that everyone drives a motor scooter. Loads that would require a GMC Suburban in California are handled expertly in Hanoi on two wheels. In LA, if you try putting your toddler – or maybe two (with no helmets) – on the front of your scooter they’d likely take your kids away and put you in jail. In Hanoi, that’s just running errands on a normal day.
The Metropole is a very elegant, old-school hotel. In a nod to their multi-cultural past, you are greeted with a “bon jour” and then a cup of ginger tea. It’s the kind of place with Hermès and Patek Phillipe boutiques in the lobby. There’s also a selection of moving, historic photos with commentary, providing a glimpse into what is was like when Hanoi was heavily bombed in the 70’s during the “American War” – that’s what they call it here – and guests moved to shelters under the hotel. So much here to see and ponder.
After a long nap, we take a walk around the picturesque Truc Bach Lake, right in the center of town. It was Sunday night and the streets were closed to traffic, but packed with local people having a great time. Bars, restaurants, bright lights, music and dancing all over the place. Teens playing a form of hackey sack with a sack that was half shuttlecock and half ball. Super cool. Very family oriented and tons of smiles. Apparently they do this every weekend in Hanoi and it looks very fun.
Next it was time to meet our Backroads group. A pretty small group of 12 – probably because this particular trip falls over the Thanksgiving holiday which we had totally forgotten about here in Southeast Asia. First event is a “cyclo” trip through Hanoi. A cyclo is basically a rickshaw that is part bike and pedaled by the driver from behind. It’s a crazy ride through downtown. Stoplights turn red and green but they seem more like suggestions rather than hard and fast rules. Cars and scooters drive on the “wrong” side of the road, but they all seem to get along in the chaos. It’s an incredible place – colorful colonial homes, wide French boulevards buzzing with scooters, taxis, diesel trucks and more cyclos. Vietnamese businessmen in suits are just as common as traditionally dressed farmers carrying massive baskets overflowing with super fresh vegetables, flowers and fish.
After lunch at a very good restaurant called “Home”, we take a walking tour around Truc Bach Lake and hear the story of John McCain being shot down here during heavy US bombing raids on October 26, 1967, crashing into this lake and being pulled out by some Vietnamese citizens – and then taken to the “Hanoi Hilton” which happens to be our next stop.
Hoa Lo Prison is the official name of the place where American prisoners were held in Hanoi during the “American War”. Unofficially, it was called the Hanoi Hilton. It remains a pretty grim place, but very interesting. It was a prison long before the American War and many North Vietnamese were held here by the French during their long occupation of “French Indochina”. They say that “history is written by the victors” and there is a section of the prison dedicated to the American War. They depict very humane treatment of the POW’s as they play volleyball, celebrate Christmas and get medical treatment. It’s a very different narrative than that written in the memoirs from US POW’s that spent time here during the war.
The next day we catch an early flight to the city of Hue. After a quick change into bike clothes, we’re rolling through the Vietnamese countryside. Small villages, rice paddies, water buffalos, and lots of ancestral monuments dot the landscape. The best part, however, is the enthusiastic and super-cute kids that are everywhere and yell “hello” and put up their hands for “high fives” as we pass by. Super fun!
Hue is best known for the Citadel, once the enclosure of the Emperor, and home to 3,000 inhabitants. It was also the site of some of the most intense fighting during the Tet Offensive. The Citadel and Forbidden City, is mostly destroyed now, but is currently being restored by UNESCO. Our ride also brings us to the incredible Khai Ding Tomb – the tomb of the last Vietnamese emperor. Very impressive.
Our next destination is the village of Hoi An. But not before we ride up the only really big hill of this trip – the Hai Van pass. It’s about 10km long and pretty steep the whole way. On our ride, it starts out very hot and humid, then a light rain, which is wonderful, and then a torrential typhoon-like downpour which is scary. I actually saw a scooter crash coming down the other side of the road due to the wet pavement. But once past that pretty brutal ride, we get to a delicious lunch at a lovely beachside resort and are then whisked off to the heavenly Four Seasons Nam Hai. This is one of the finest hotels we’ve ever stayed in. Amazing rooms, incredible spa and a location right on the beach.
The village of Hoi An is also really cool. It’s a UNESCO world heritage site filled with restaurants, bars, quaint bridges and lots of tourists having fun. Also, if you want some “made to measure” clothing, this is the place. There are over 100 shops that will make you tailor made clothing. A shop called “Yaly” was recommended to us and it seemed very reputable. I got measured and ordered a blazer in a wonderful linen I picked out from their huge fabric collection. When I came back the next day for a second fitting, the blazer looked so good I asked if they could make me a second one and have it delivered to the hotel the next morning before we left. No problem. Each custom made linen blazer, with a hand-selected silk lining was about $200 and really nice. Shawn had three shirts made. I also purchased two made to measure short sleeve shirts across the street at another shop for $18 each. This is definitely one of the places that after you leave you wish you’d bought more stuff! If you come to Vietnam, this is a town you should not miss. Very fun.
We ended that night with a cooking class and dinner at a place called Vy’s Market. Not sure that I can remember any of the recipes, but I do remember that it was really good – like almost all the food in Vietnam.
The next day there was an early morning bike ride scheduled before we departed to the airport for our flight to Cambodia. Shawn and I – and every other Backroads participant – came down with a case of “Nam Hai Fever” which took us directly to the truly incredible Four Seasons spa for massages. This is one of the nicest spas we’ve ever seen. So, so good.
After the spa and the ensuing long day of travel, we get to Siem Reap, Cambodia and the Raffles Grand d’Angkor Hotel. This is another old, but wonderfully restored hotel with incredible service.
The main attractions in Siem Reap are the great temples from the Khmer Empire. Over the next two days we ride the red dirt roads through tiny villages around these magnificent temples. The people are not as outgoing here, but we still get a few hellos from the children. It’s apparent to us that Cambodia is not yet experiencing the great economic resurgence that we witnessed in Vietnam.
The temples at Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm (where they shot the original Tomb Raider moving with Angelina Jolie) and Angkor Wat are truly amazing. So much bigger and majestic than I thought they would be. This is worth the trip to Cambodia. During our visit we see incredible Buddha images and experience a water blessing from a Buddhist monk designed to bring good luck. It’s an incredibly interesting and fun ceremony which has something to do with new beginnings. We see another family bring a new baby for a water blessing as well as a new truck. Guess everyone and everything can use a blessing!
Our Backroads trip ends too quickly in Cambodia and we bid farewell to our fellow travelers. We stay one more night to check out the Night Market and have dinner at a restaurant called Malis. If you are in Siem Reap, don’t miss this restaurant. Excellent food in a beautiful setting and a reasonable – for American standards – price. Also, if you visit the Night Market don’t fall for the “baby formula” scam. Google that before you go.
The next day, we head to the airport and fly northward to Laos and the city of Luang Prabang. This is a city located on the Mekong river that was once – a long time ago – the capital of Laos. It’s pretty small, and for a third world country, relatively nice. We’re super lucky cuz our travel agent extraordinaire, Tammy Cane has booked us at the exquisite Belmond La Residence Phou Vao, an incredible boutique hotel with amazing service and a wonderful restaurant (https://www.belmond.com/hotels/asia/laos/luang-prabang/belmond-la-residence-phou-vao/about).
We’re going to China next week and have determined that Luang Prabang is the place where we’ll try to secure our Chinese visas. The Chinese Embassy is a short bike ride from the hotel, but we soon learn that one of the requirements for a Chinese visa is having two blank pages in your passport. Unfortunately, Shawn has only one blank page and therefore, she cannot be issued a visa. Seems like a small issue but this becomes a really a big problem!
Trying not to stress about our unsuccessful trip to the Chinese Embassy, we take a bike tour around Luang Prabang, and eat lunch at a restaurant overlooking the peaceful Mekong – next door to where Barack Obama came to Laos and apparently had a coconut (there are photos). During lunch we decide that we need to get to the US Embassy in Vientiane, the capital of Laos, to get Shawn a temporary passport. Apparently, permanent passports are only issued in the US and post-2015, the US no longer adds blank pages to passports.
It’s a five hour drive to Vientiane, so we book round trip flights (45 minutes each way) for the next day. Tammy has a car booked to drive us around – which is critical – and we head to the US Embassy which is on the outskirts of town. It’s a new, pretty large facility – seems much to big for Laos – and other than security, which is ever-present, we appear to be the only people at the Embassy. After having our bags searched and our phones and iPads temporarily confiscated, we proceed through a huge courtyard into the inner workings of the building and, alas, another waiting room. After explaining what we need, we’re told to sit and wait. So we start to play cards – cribbage actually – and are then informed by the Laotian security guard that we must put the cards back in my backpack. So, no card playing allowed at the US Embassy. Apparently some sort of a security risk.
After about an hour we get Shawn’s temporary passport, but are informed that some countries won’t accept it – specifically Indonesia. Since we are going to Bali in January, that’s a big problem, cuz when they give you the temp passport, they invalidate your permanent passport. You can’t have two passports. So that’s another problem we’ll have to deal with later.
We get back to the car and drive to the Chinese Embassy, which is on a little side street/alley in the center of Vientiane. Security is not nearly as tight here and it looks like they will let you play cards. We’re lucky because we’ve arrived at 11:15am and the place closes for applications at 11:30. After quickly filling out the visa application, we ask – “can we get these today”. The clerk grunts, “yes”, so we’re pretty happy and are told to come back at 4:00pm, but we must pay the $350 fee (very high for same day service, these usually take a week) at the Chinese ICBC bank on the other side of town.
Back in the car to ICBC – which looks like the nicest building in town, but for Chinese visa payments, then only take cash. And our ATM cards won’t work here in this Chinese bank. So back in the car to search for ATMs that will give us a big pile of Laotian Rip. Got it, then back to the bank. We pay, get some lunch at an American themed restaurant called Senglao, then back to the Chinese embassy and pick up the visas. Then back to the airport for the 6:30 flight back to Luang Prabang and our oasis at the Belmond. BTW, once you’ve been in Vientiane, you really notice how nice a town Luang Prabang is.
We still have a problem with Indonesia, but will try to deal with that at the Indonesian embassy in Singapore.
After our day trip to Vientiane, we have one more day in Laos. This turns out to be the best one of all. We wake up to an absolutely beautiful day. About 78 degrees and clear with a slight breeze. Perfect for our scheduled boat ride on the Mekong. We knew we had a private boat booked, but no idea that it was a huge “slow boat” about 80 feet long.
The section of the Mekong near Luang Prabang is really beautiful. The river is wide and brown like chocolate milk, and on this day very calm. The banks are covered with forests and you can see tall mountains in the distance. Soon we see steep limestone cliffs as we near our destination, the Tham Pak Ou Caves which are filled with Buddha images, of every style, size and material imaginable. The steps up to the caves are very steep, but the views are worth the climb.
After about an hour, we’re back in the slow boat for the lovely return trip. Back at the Belmond, we have another great dinner. In fact, we ate dinner here each night we were in Laos. Was so good, we decided why go anywhere else!
Now we are off for something quite a bit different – Singapore!