I know that I’ve become a bit tardy in recent reporting. Apologies to my four readers. “The warm summer breezes, french wines and cheeses, kept his ambition at bay – Jimmy Buffet.” It’s very easy to do nothing in France.
A plane from Florence to Madrid and a connection to San Sebastián gets us to a little town just outside the airport called Hondarribia. Firmly inside the Basque Country. I think they just seceded from Spain. No worry. If it’s not on Fox it’s all fake news anyway. Or is that CNN? 😂
For one night we lodge at the three-star Hotel Obisbo, a 15th century structure converted into a funky hotel (not in a smelly way, it’s actually super clean) that’s a five minute taxi from the airport. And less than $100 for the night. Small room, but tidy and comfortable. Expecting an “airport city”, the little town of Hondarribia, with cobbled streets and a cool, old church is a pleasant surprise.
We happened upon a great little restaurant called Danontzat with the best – and I mean the very best – Foie Gras that I’ve ever had [http://gastrotur.net/gastroteka-danontzat-hondarribia/]. Per the owner, the goose is not force fed, but lives under a fig tree and eats the figs that fall off the tree before its liver is sacrificed. Hmmm. But so, so good!
The next day we take a short taxi ride – about 30 minutes – to the incredibly swanky town of Biarritz. It’s like Beverly Hills and La Jolla had a love child and dropped it on the coast of France. Got an Airbnb here that was awesome – if you’re not too tall. [https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/21127022?eal_exp=1528163641&eal_sig=e462d639ef00767c9b17605f5399969f58f3b6f7df636ef5e7e210bca39f44c9&eal_uid=116697965&eluid=0&euid=51a1f103-cfe9-45b1-9d03-6d18093aff7c]. Not a problem for the vertically challenged Klein’s. One small room (kitchen and living area) downstairs with a queen size bed in the loft. The shower is upstairs and the toilet is down. It’s challenging to navigate the spiral staircase downstairs in the middle of the night and the ceiling upstairs is a bit low, but the incredible location wins out.
We’re just above the Grande Plage, one of the top surf spots in France – and, I think, one of the best “city” beaches anywhere.
During our three day early May (and a bit rainy) visit, the waves were about 5-8 feet with about 50-75 surfers in the water most of the time. Really cool to watch out the window.
This town is super glitzy. The winding cobblestone streets are full of great bistros and shopping. The Grand Plage promenade is loaded up with tables for lunch, snacks and drinks on the shore – a perfect spot to take in the coastal views, and enjoy the surf action.
Unfortunately for us, it was mostly cloudy and rainy, but when the sun did poke through you could imagine an awesome summery day in Biarritz.
Other cool attractions include a better than expected aquarium – with this very rare French blue lobster.
An impressive cathedral on the cliffs above the surf.
And a great stone walkway to take in the superior ocean views.
We’d totally recommend Biarritz for a two or three day visit. Probably better in the summer, but the crowds are likely massive as well.
It’s a two hour train ride from Biarritz to Bordeaux where we meet Kevin and Linda Rosen (once known as Linda Glick and, of course, 1984 UCLA Lambda Chi Alpha Crescent Queen) our traveling companions for a week in one of France’s finest wine regions. Linda, an amazing planner, arranged an Airbnb in the best part of Bordeaux’s old town for our first two nights.
Located on the Garonne River, Bordeaux was one of the most important trading ports in the 18th century. For some reason, I had in my mind that it was a little village, but it’s most definitely not. It’s actually the sixth largest city in France – with about 250,000 people and the hub of one of the world’s preeminent wine growing regions. It’s full of activity and great architecture – old and modern.
For wine aficionados, you’ll already know that “left bank” refers to wine regions on the west side of the Garonne River and “right bank” to those on the east side of the river. I know you knew that – it was just a refresher.
Linda arranged dinners at two fantastic restaurants – Solena [http://www.solena-restaurant.com] and Le Boucheon Bordelais [https://www.bouchon-bordelais.com]. Both are excellent. Solena is a bit more “fine dining” – it is a Michelin rated restaurant – and Le Boucheon is a bit more of a bistro, but both are great.
Our excellent planner also put together a very nice wine tour with Elodie [www.bordeauxwithelodie.com]. Elodie picked us up at our apartment – which was convenient cuz it was raining – and took us to the left bank to tour and taste the finest of Chateau Lafond-Rochet (AOC: Saint Estephe), Chateau Beychevelle (AOC: Saint-Julien), and Chateau Kirwan (AOC: Margaux).
These are all Grand Cru Classe labels from the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855. In the Medoc region – which encompasses the left bank – the Grand Cru Classe ratings were established in 1855 and have not been re-rated since. No matter, these left bank winemakers continue to represent quality and their Chateaus are extremely impressive – along with the wines. A great day of tasting (that’s “degustation” for the oenophiles) and touring, as well some fine wine education.
Next we’re off to our Backroads cycling trip along the Dordogne River and the “right bank” of Bordeaux. Yes, life is getting rough! Team Rosen/Klein meet our trip leaders at the train station and shuttle with a group of seven others “cyclists” to the village of Pontours to pick up our bikes and take a warm-up ride through the bastide town of Molieres and some lovely tree-lined paths along the Dordogne River.
After about 20 miles, we reach our destination – and home for the first two nights, Le Vieux Logis [http://www.vieux-logis.com/en/], a Relais & Chateaux listed property in Tremolat. It’s a beautiful, elegantly restored estate, formerly dedicated to tobacco production. That night we are blessed with a fantastic dinner at the property’s own Michelin one-star gourmet restaurant. Was so great. Especially since it was paid for many month’s ago.
The next day, however, brings a challenge. Rain. We had packed our cycling clothes in January – and shipped them to Nikki in Italy so we could pick them up just before this trip – dreaming only of sunny days. So our rain gear was a bit make-shift. Crescent Queen Rosen, on the other hand was fully equipped for the battle with a long water proof coat, gortex pants and even shoe covers. So good to be a “planner”. 😊 No matter, 10 out of our group of 11 (one was smart enough to pass this IQ test and not ride) saddled up and rode in the rain to the Rouffignac Cave [http://www.bradshawfoundation.com/france/rouffignac/index.php] to view prehistoric cave paintings of woolly mammoths, rhinos, bison and horses. I usually find this kind of stuff pretty boring, but these petroglyphs are actually pretty cool. But go on a warm day. Transitioning from a cold wet ride to a colder wet, damp cave is not ideal. Nonetheless, the hot bath back at Le Vieux Logis was awesome!
Day 3 brought slightly better weather and an overcast ride through the wonderful countryside of Bergerac (remember “Cyrano de Bergerac”). After a stop at 16th century Chateau de Monbazillac – which is cool if you like old chateaus – we ride our way to Chateau de Vigiers, a fabulous resort with an awesome looking 27 hole golf course [https://vigiers.com/relais-hotel-dordogne.html]. This resort is also endowed with a Michelin one-star restaurant – and we finished off the day with another gastronomic delight!
Backroads (and Butterfield & Robinson) always save the best for last. As the weather continued to improve, we make our make our way to the gem of the right bank, Saint Emilion – a UNESCO World Heritage site. The riding remains sublime as we wind through some of the world’s finest vineyards toward Hostellerie de Plaisance [https://hostelleriedeplaisance.com] an amazing hotel in the best location in town directly adjacent to the tower of Saint Emilion’s monolithic church.
Hotellerie de Plaisance is five star in every sense. Beautiful rooms with terraces overlooking the old city, amazing service and, of course, their own vineyard.
That evening our guides had arranged for a “wine school” with Benjamin, an expert oenologist from Vignobles and Chateaux, one of the top wine negotiants in Bordeaux. After an hour of excellent (and actually interesting) instruction, we were fully prepared to taste/drink some fine Bordeaux reds at a great St. Emilion pizza spot with the Rosen’s.
The following morning we finally see a mostly sunny day and suit up for another wonderful ride through the villages and vineyards surrounding St. Emilion. Wine expert Benjamin joins us for lunch and a tour at Chateau Pavie, a Premier Grand Cru Classe vineyard. In St. Emilion, this seems to matter a bit more than on the left bank (Medoc), as the ratings are re-evaluated every 10 years (not just held over from 1855).
After the ride we take a private tour of the catacombs and Europe’s largest monolithic church – Eglise Monolithe [http://www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com/uk/1-discover/31-the-12-inescapable-monuments/5-the-monolithic-church-and-its-bell-tower.html] – which happens to be directly under our hotel. If you find yourself in St. Emilion, this place is a must see. It’s a huge church, carved underground in the limestone plateau. Really feels like something out of a Tomb Raider movie. Sorry there are no pics – they are not allowed inside this church.
Our journey to French wine country concludes with a truly gut-busting (and delicious) six-course dinner at our Hotel’s two star Michelin restaurant, La Table de Plaisance. Fantastic cap on a great week!
Although we are sad to put Bordeaux in the rear-view mirror (and to say au revoir to the Rosen’s) we are happy to be flying south to meet up with Nikki and her BFF Nicole for a few days in Positano and a week in Puglia.
I am running out of positive adjectives …
Seriously, this looks so damn great – thx for sharing!